Wetterhorn Pk – Southeast Ridge

Date: July 23, 2005
Elevation: 14,015′
Rank: 49th
Route: Southeast Ridge, Grade II, Class 3, 6.8 miles, 3280ft vert.
GPS: N 38° 3.633′ W 107° 30.667′
Team: Matt Esser (Toid), Rick Esser (Dad)

Pre-climb: Since Uncompahgre went so well a few days ago, my dad wanted to try the more exciting Wetterhorn. I too was excited to climb it, however my only concern would be the weather. Hurricaine Emily was finally sending the much needed rain up into Colorado to break the record heat wave and our window of opportunity would be very short if we wanted to summit.

Climb: Our alarms went off at 4:30am and my dad and I were on the road from Lake City to Wetterhorn by 5:10am. It was unfortunately cloudy still, but at least it was clearing by the time we starting hiking. Finding the turnoff in Capitol City was really easy as we had scouted it out the day before when we did the Alpine Loop. (Which I highly recommend by the way) What’s not so easy to find is the 4×4 turnoff for Matterhorn Creek. Look for it on your right and at first it looks not very traveled compared to the other roads at that critical intersection. There’s a nice big sign though, so one shouldn’t miss it if they are paying attention. The only hard maneuver is at the very end where two giant rocks are waiting to eat your axel’s for breakfast, but are easily avoided by a new “road” that branches off to the left and up the final push to the trailhead parking.

We arrived at 6am and were surprised at how full the parking lot was! It was packed! We then had to find a place to park, got ready and quickly signed in to the trail register and took off around the forest service gate and up the old jeep trail. Pretty quickly we arrived at the most amusing sign I have ever encountered on a 14er. At this trail junction where the sign is, you have on your left a trail that feels way more natural if heading towards Wetterhorn and on your right is another trail that doesn’t seem to be heading the right direction as it switchbacks up this mound to the east and seems a little out of the way for Wetterhorn. The former is labled Matterhorn Creek and the latter being the Stock Trail. What’s so funny about it is that somebody had put a little tape on the sign and wrote: “To Wetterhorn —–> (really!)” I love it. My dad and I took the advice of the “Sharpie writing” and soon found ourselves out of the trees with satisfying views of Matterhorn and ultimately Wetterhorn.

The trail split again and this time is was a no brainer for which one to take and we headed across a wildflower filled basin, across Matterhorn Creek to a boulder field of sorts that would be the way to work your way up to the ridge of Wetterhorn. It’s actually a good introduction to very easy routefinding and for people who haven’t climbed the harder peaks, it’s a good exercise to try and spot the cairns while on safe terrain.

Just before the saddle we crossed a snow spot for about 20 feet that still remains, but well tracked through. Once on the ridge one finally gets perspective to the bumps that are above.

At first, there is this huge yellowish hump one must climb up with very little features to use for traction. Luckily I had my trekking poles to use four wheel drive with. From here to the summit it amazed me how many people ditched their poles for all the little marmots to feast on. No wonder a civilization of marmots exists on Wetterhorn below the summit. After the yellow hill, the scrambling begins and I must admit that it was a lot of fun!

Routefinding wasn’t a problem until just below the Ship’s Prow where one must make their way around, up, or over this one section of rock. To the left and right there are cairns which doesn’t help things. We chose to go right which turned out to be just as exposed as the final 200ft to the summit. In hindsight, go left at this point…while it *looks* harder, it’s actually easier and less exposed. This would be our path of descent.

Once at the Ship’s Prow, we made our way up to and through the Keyhole, down the ramp and arrived at the base of the staircase that leads to the summit. My dad and I were trying to make the top fairly quickly as the weather was building all around us and so we started climbing up the solid rock. At only one place (about 20ft from the top) did we have to think about which way to go. We traversed left along this ledge and then climbed up a final gully to the summit. This summit is much smaller than Uncompahgre’s!

We took a lot of pictures, grabbed a bite to eat, couldn’t find the summit register and just as we were getting ready to head down we saw a plane fly by us. The plane actually flew BENEATH us! We waved from the summit and could easily see the two passengers. It was rather different being ABOVE a plane in flight!

As we prepared to go down my dad went over to where we climbed up to the summit and tried to step down and quickly hesitated. He then looked at me and asked, “Are you sure we came up this way?” I could tell what he was thinking. It looked way steeper going down than it did coming up. And that’s true! We hadn’t taken the time to look down when climbing up. Now that we are descending and can see the exposure, it kind of took my dad by surprise I think. I took over the lead and showed my dad how to use butt cheeks to get down off a mountain. It worked fabulously and we made quick work back down to the Ship’s Prow. Once there we then could relax, take the correct way down the next section and then hustle back down the rest of the rocks. As we were downclimbing, I witnessed two lightning strikes to Broken Hill’s ridge. The thunder was loud and creepy enough to give me goosebumps. I kicked it into turbo descent mode and rocks in my shoe or not, I took the biggest steps I could and flew down the mountain at near record pace (for me anyway). Just as I reached the saddle I saw another lightning strike Uncompahgre’s ridge! It’s getting close! By now I was practically just trying to guide my free-fall descent with my trekking poles and every so often checked back on my dad to make sure he was making it down ok. By the time we made it back to the boulder field we started encountering people who were still trying to climb UP! Are you kidding me!? Don’t people understand that lightning can kill? Or better yet, don’t people know what makes all that thunder they had to be hearing? I *just* don’t get it.

After we made it back into the trees we could finally start to relax and ease up on the pace. However, just as we were approaching the funny sign it started to sprinkle, and then almost the exact moment we hit the trailhead it started to downright rain. We quickly signed out of the register and made our way back down to Engineer Pass. It was an easy drive back to the cabin on Lake San Cristobal and we were showered and drinking Corona’s by 1:45pm. We left at the perfect time. Had we had a later start, we wouldn’t have summitted due to weather conditions.

Wetterhorn is my new favorite fourteener. Before it had been Crestone Needle. But to me Wetterhorn seemed to have a little of everything. In fact, it was kind of like a mini Longs Peak! At first you have a trail in the trees, then it open up and you skirt around mountains and work your way around to a boulder field, then you go up through a keyhole, then you scramble up a homestrech! However it’s only 7 miles long instead of 15! Not to mention it’s not nearly as crowded!

For people looking for an easier class 3 14er, Wetterhorn has to be it. I enjoyed every minute of it.

Drive: 1h
Ascent: 3.5h
Summit: 30 min
Descent: 2.5h
Drive: 9.5h
Total: 6.5h

Uncompahgre Pk – East Slopes

Date: July 20, 2005
Elevation: 14,309′
Rank: 6th
Route: East Slopes, Grade I, Class 2, 7.8 miles, 2870ft vert.
GPS: N 38° 04.333′ W 107° 27.767′
Team: Matt Esser (Toid), Rick Esser (Dad)

Pre-climb: My parents had rented a cabin in Lake City for the week and invited Colleen and myself down to join them. How could I pass that up!? On top of that, my dad wanted to climb Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn since they were so close and not too intimidating. So while Denver would be having record heat, Colleen and I were enjoying the cool mountain air of the San Juans…

Climb: The drive to Lake City was pretty uneventful. Colleen and I left Denver at 6:30pm (while it still was 101° F) and by midnight we were too tired to drive anymore and so we stopped in Gunnison at a hotel for a quick nap. Our 5am wakeup call came way too quickly and we were off to the cabin to pick up my dad and head for Nellie Creek.

The worst part of the 4×4 road up Nellie Creek is right at the beginning off of Engineer Pass. It’s a really beautiful drive that included a waterfall or two, a couple river crossings and not too bad of a road. My dad and I arrived at the trailhead around 7:30am. Fifteen minutes later we were geared up and my dad was climbing his first 14er!

We were blessed with amazingly blue skies, cool weather and a faint wind. Soon after starting, the trees give way to a small hill that’s a little rocky but easy to navigate through. Once on top and past Nellie Creek one is greeted by what lies ahead: Uncompahgre Peak in full view. What an interesting mountain!

From the beginning of the basin to the ridge, the hike is very pleasant and gains elevation surprisingly quickly for how gentle it is in steepness. Soon enough we were on the ridge and decided to take a short break and eat some snacks. We were taking the hike pretty slowly since my dad just arrived from Oklahoma and I hadn’t had much sleep, but both of us were feeling great and in fact I was probably holding my dad back! It’s fantastic to have such great weather so as not to have to worry about anything other than enjoying yourself, and remembering why you get out and climb.

After gaining the ridge, there are a couple switchbacks up a rocky area that are a little steeper than the previous miles, but it’s not bad at all. We made our way around to the crux (getting up the cliffs at around 13,900′) and worked our way up the solid rock to the final hike up the enormous summit.

Once on top we found a group of people who were really excited about being on top and high fives were exchanged all around. The views are amazing and it’s so hard to tell what’s a fourteener with so many high peaks around. It took us 3.5 hours, and that was hiking at a very slow pace. We signed the summit register and then took some time to lean over the incredible drop off on the north face and then wondered around the giant summit looking at all the wind shelters and even the cement blocks. How that got there is probably only known by the marmots. Or “whistle pigs” as my dad calls them.

My dad then met somebody on the summit that went to high school in Oklahoma and was only one year apart which reminds us how small the world can be sometimes. However, we didn’t want to take any chances with the building clouds in monsoon season so we headed back down.

On our way down it amazed me how many people were still hiking up. The clouds were getting dark, and now it was noon and it’s amusing because you can tell what shape the hiker is in based on the question they ask. For instance, if as I’m descending and they are ascending, they ask me, “How’s the crux?” Chances are they know the mountain and wanted the important first-hand beta. On the other side of things, hikers that aren’t doing as good usually say something like, “How much further?” or my favorite…”Do you have any water?” Haha…still ascending and already out of water…that’s not very good planning! We saw a lot of the latter group as we worked back down the trail.

By the time we arrived in the basin, it started to sprinkle a bit and we ran into a group of hikers that were planning to camp overnight. After a quick water break we then made quick work of the final mile and were back to the car in 2.5 hours.

Uncompahgre would make a great first 14er and IMHO one of the easiest. Not to mention it’s in the breathtaking San Juans.

Drive: 6.25h
Ascent: 3.75h
Summit: 30 min
Descent: 2.5h
Drive: 45 min
Total: 6.75h

Mt. Lindsey – North Face – Solo Ascent

Date: July 10, 2005
Elevation: 14,042′
Rank: 43rd
Route: North Face, Grade II, Class 3, 7.8 miles, 3400ft vert.
GPS: N 37° 35.033′ W 105° 26.717′
Team: Matt Esser (Toid)

Pre-climb: Colleen gave me the green light to get out and do a 14er on my own. (My first solo since before we got engaged) I basically had three 14ers that I was eyeing for a one day trip and those were: Missouri, Holy Cross and Lindsey. I decided on Lindsey based on that I hadn’t been to the Blanca area yet and wanted to scout out the rock in that area in preparation for next summers Lake Como trip.

Climb: Waking up at 1am is hard to do. Especially when you go to bed after 10pm and you only had 6 hours of rest the night before. Oh well, I smashed my alarm clock in and got up anyways. Luckily I was already packed, I just had to do the last bit of the formal routine such as filling my nalgenes and getting “breakfast” (if you can call it that at this time of night). I stopped at the gas station on my way out of town and by 1:30am I was rolling my way towards Mt. Lindsey.

I made one stop in Pueblo to get a Coke as I needed my early morning caffeine, and one stop in Walsenburg to fill up on gas. (Thanks for the heads-up for filling up with gas for the drive from there to the TH, whoevers TR I read.) It’s a long drive, and to put any doubt to if a 2wd vehicle can make it, I saw a Geo Metro at the TH. The drive to the trailhead was filled with many, many aspen’s. I don’t believe I have ever seen that many fully mature aspen’s in my life. There were also multiple deer sightings, I also saw a shooting star.

The weather was nice, blue skies, but warm and windy. I worried about how windy it would be up top from the trailhead as I could hear it howling from my car and it was only 6am. I quickly signed in to the trail register and was off at an amazing pace and soon (20 min) at the infamous Huerfano river crossing. I noticed some logs that were above the water level and the river was only a foot deep or so, and there was no need to take my boots off, I just used my poles to balance as I crossed. It was easy to find. It’s rather funny looking back, before the trip I was all worried about this river crossing when really my boots got wetter hiking the first part of the trail due to the many smaller water crossings.

Once you cross the river it’s like you’re on a different trail. The trail shoots up the gully and it doesn’t mess around getting you to 12k where it dumps you into this beautiful overlook into the basin in front of Lindsey. Great views of Blanca as well. I had no problem following the trail, the only part where I had to think was when the trail looked like it went up a steeper part into the trees or stayed along the river. You want to go up into the trees. Eventually you’ll cross the river over to the right side, but that’s not until near the top.

Still making good time, I took a break and put on my jacket as the wind was really coming across the basin, but in a good direction…it would be my tailwind to push me up to the saddle between Lindsey and Iron Nipple. What a name for a mountain.

I love hiking in basins. When you’re in one or looking down at people in one, you realize the scope of things. Giant peaks surround you in all directions and yet here you are in this lush green area with a small runoff of water, oh it was gorgeous. All too soon I was across it and started the climb up to the ridge and then ultimately the saddle. It was here I passed one group who said they made the saddle but decided not to go any further due to how they felt. I’m actually happy when people climb with common sense and realize when to call it a day instead of extending themselves. I pressed on and made the saddle in three hours and was happy with that and so I stopped to take a seat, a drink of water and take the same picture everybody takes of the remaining route. I was now faced with the decision of which route I wanted to take. I had my climbing helmet, and there was very little snow in the couloir (and completely avoidable), so either route was acceptable. I started hiking towards the start of the ridge route when a second party was coming down the ridge. I asked them how the route was, and they made it to the knife edge and said they didn’t want to cross it, nor downclimb around it because they didn’t know if another one was above it. I told them that there wasn’t anything bad after they made it up the part with a large crack down the middle of it just beyond the knife edge move, but they were climbing without helmets and very light gear and I guess didn’t feel comfortable with it, and were now too tired to attempt the couloir. Well crap.

I thought about things for a moment, and maybe the elevation was affecting the amount of blood to my brain, but I chose to settle on the loose rock couloir route instead of the ridge route. Why on earth I decided to do this after I stayed up the previous night and came to the conclusion that everybody who climbed it said take the ridge route is beyond my understanding. It was a big mistake on my part because due to there already being two parties above me on the couloir (one with helmets and one without), I had to wait it out for the people above me to make their way up and out of the chute because the second group was not climbing on the Class 3 rocks to the right of the gully and were dropping rock bombs more frequently than I would have liked. *sigh*

Time passed and eventually I decided that the longer I sat here the more likely I would be attacked by monster marmots, not to mention I was drinking all my water while I waited, so I started climbing up the Class 3 part to the right of the horrible, loose gully of rocks. Even the rocks to the right weren’t that solid, but at least they would hold my weight when I walked on them. But then all of the sudden, as I was making this extended move while holding onto a rock, my left boot exploded due to the pressure and the weird angle it was at, and the lacing came all shooting out. The sudden surprise of no support from my foot made me think the mega rock I was on gave way and I was soon going to be following it downhill for a long ride. But then when I looked down to see why I wasn’t falling, I was actually relieved to only find out it was my hiking boot that gave way, not the rock. I made the move and then had to patch together my boot. Well, now with one bum boot, crappy footholds, people above me without helmets kicking rocks off, I made very slow time up the route to the false summit of Lindsey. I actually thought that is where I was supposed to go, until I got there and noticed that there was an easier way up to the top from the gully. I only noticed this route because I saw the other two parties descending it. For people reading this, first of all, take the ridge route, not the North Face route like I did, however, if you do take the couloir, when you get to the top of what you can see, continue straight on over the gully, and you’ll see a trail that traverses more parallel with the ridge, instead of trying to gain the ridge once making it up the couloir like I thought I was supposed to do.

I made the walk over to the true summit of Lindsey and took a seat. I noticed I was now down to half a nalgene of water. Six hours after leaving the trailhead. What happened? I was at the saddle in three and felt great, then I simply chose the wrong route and the mountain won. Now I felt worse than I have on any other summit. However, the views from Lindsey were spectacular and I could see the Crestones, as well as Blanca, Ellingwood and Little Bear. I opened the summit register and to my surprise there were a lot of names from 14erworld that had climbed the previous day. I recognized most of them, but was too tired to really read all the comments. In fact, in mine I didn’t put what number I was at, I didn’t put my website address or mention 14erworld, all I said was “Tired.” That’s what I get for taking the North Face route.

I quickly ate some Skittles, and then momentarily thought about maybe taking the ridge down. While this may have been a good decision, I wasn’t about to make Classic Climbing Mistake #2: Descending what you didn’t climb up. So, I was forced with my gimp boot and all to try and make it back down to the saddle via that cursed couloir that is so steep and loose, I can think of a hundred other places I’d rather be and that’s not good when you’re up at 14,000ft on a mountain. Truly a nightmare. I slowly picked my way down and when I finally got back to the saddle all I could do was thank God for me making it down safely and look back at what I just did and shake my head. Subliminal message, for people reading: TAKE THE RIDGE.

The clouds were starting to flair up and now the Iron Nipple was completely out of the question due to the couloir taking two hours longer than expected to ascend, so I headed downhill back towards the basin and a water source so I could filter water for my remaining trek out. I decided to take my time to enjoy the scenery for once and to actually hang out at various places along the river just to sit and watch the water tumble over to rocks and to listen to the noises of nature. Something I don’t normally do on hikes that I should do. All too often I’m in too much of a hurry to get to the summit in back down that I forget to enjoy what I really came to enjoy…nature.

By now it was starting to sprinkle rain and it was pushing 5pm and I was still descending towards the river crossings. I was mildly hoping to maybe see a bear from a distance trying to find food, but that didn’t happen and once I hit the flat part of the trail I decided the rain was now starting to be a little much and and hoofed it back to my Blazer. Of course, as soon as I got there it stopped raining.

After putting on my sandals, I looked into the mirror to realize another mistake I made that day. I forgot to reapply sunscreen. Being a computer guy, I’m pasty white and burn easily and if I don’t apply every few hours I turn into a red lobster and without fail, that’s what I look like now. However, I thought the hike was only going to take seven, maybe eight hours, but due to the waiting on the ascent and casual descent, it took 11.5 hours. Yikes.

I don’t want to talk anybody into doing something that is past their abilities but if you are capable of doing Class 3+, do the ridge route, and I guarantee you’ll have more fun. Finally, after all that, the long drive back to the highway and then home combined for a pretty long day.

Drive: 4.5h
Ascent: 5.75h
Summit: 15 min
Descent: 5.5h
Drive: 4.5h
Total: 11.5h